Thirty years ago, tourism was nearly nonexistent in Croatia. Years of conflict with the former Yugoslavia had halted travel, and it wasn’t until the late 1990s that visitors began to rediscover the country’s crystal waters and Renaissance towns. When they did, Croatia’s underdeveloped infrastructure became part of its appeal — an authentic contrast to the polished glamour of places like Monaco or the Amalfi Coast.
The Island Spirit
One example is the island of Vis, once a military base under the communist regime, now a haven for vineyards and adventure seekers. Visitors sip local wines in the Lipanović Winery, built inside an old military tunnel, or dive for sunken World War II aircraft. “People come to Croatia for the history, culture and the strength of its tradition,” says Captain Vedran Rakuljić, master of the 175-foot Aeterna, currently moored off the island of Šćedro.
A Maritime Heritage
Croatia’s heritage is deeply tied to the sea. Centuries of influence from the Ottomans, Romans, and the Austro-Hungarian Empire have left a legacy of diverse dialects, architecture, and seafaring lore. Nearby Korčula boasts the cobalt-blue waters where sailors head for Mljet — said to be the island where Odysseus was held captive by the nymph Calypso — and Grabac Cave, where the first known drawing of a European ship was discovered.
Even lively Hvar retains a historical essence with its medieval Arsenale shipyard and fragrant cypress groves. “It’s incredibly easy to find a beautiful bay or anchorage in Croatia,” Rakuljić says. “Guests can swim and relax, then we organize tenders to take them ashore for city tours, wine tastings, or historical excursions.”
Aeterna Reimagined
Built in 2020 by Radež, Aeterna was originally a floating boutique hotel with 18 cabins for 36 guests. In 2023, she underwent an extensive nine-month refit, led by Rakuljić himself, transforming her into a true luxury charter yacht. The overhaul included new wiring, redesigned cabins, and a reduction to 10 spacious suites. Additions include an indoor cinema, a spa with sauna and massage table, and a minimalist design scented with ginger and underscored by soft classical music.
A Culinary Journey at Sea
Chef Marino Dikic and sous chef Ivica Mazar helm Aeterna’s galley, crafting dishes that rival Michelin-star restaurants. Lunch features family-style spreads of lamb ragù, roasted feta soup, and grilled amberjack, while dinners elevate the experience with Cadoret oysters, wagyu tartare, and Dalmatian delicacies.
The highlight is the Dalmatian dinner: anchovies in olive oil and tomato broth, delicate white fish brodetto with creamy polenta, and pasticada, a slow-braised veal dish. Dessert — a white chocolate ganache sprinkled with walnuts and figs — seals the memory.
The Season Ahead
Aeterna’s refit extended to her amenities too — jet skis, Sea-Doos, Seabobs, and even an inflatable jellyfish-proof pool. The Adriatic’s clarity reveals sea bream, turtles, and tranquil turquoise coves. “The best time is September,” Rakuljić says, “when the sea is warm and the crowds are gone.”
Charter rates start at €140,000 per week, with full bookings from May to September. “We’re too busy to enjoy her ourselves,” the captain laughs, “but when we do, we swim, sleep, and get some sun. What more could you ask for?”
